Clutch cover 'O' ring leak

I have a little trick for the clutch cover. I have been unfortunate enough to experience the mysterious leaking clutch cover. I tried to tighten the eight bolts that hold the cover on, no help. I took it off and found an o-ring. That told me that there was no chance of a quick thin layer of RTV and reseal. I even tried the RTV bead in the o-ring groove. But even that was not totally effective. So I went to my local dealer and ordered(why they do not stock this, I could not understand) a new o-ring for the right side engine cover. I installed the new o-ring and started the bike. While watching the oil burn off of the exhaust pipes, I noticed a little bubble of air at the bottom of the cover. Then "poof, bubble, drip", it started all over again. I looked around a little bit and found that I was alone with this problem. "Apparently" there "may have been" an "alleged" problem with the torque wrenches used at the factory. The bolts holding the clutch cover on go through a metal sleeve the is flanged at the top outside edge. Since the cover is plastic, this makes sense, it keeps us from over tightening and breaking the cover. But if it gets over torqued, it will leak. I will probably go the route of the track rider and find an all metal cover, but I can't afford it right now. So far I have only given a problem, now to my current solution. This solution is simple and cheap. It may not be permanent, but it will keep you from spraying oil on your back tire until you get the aluminum cover. Step one: Lean the bike on the side stand. Let it sit there long enough for the oil to move to the left side of the crankcase(about 5 minutes). Step two: Taking note of the 3 long bolts at the top left and the fuel vent line bracket at the lower left, remove the 8 cap screws that hold the cover in place. Step three: remove and clean the cover and the o-ring with mild soap and water. Dry with a clean lint free cloth. Step Four: With a small bushing driver, drive the metal inserts from the eight holes. If you do not have a driver small enough, it is possible to use a small chisel or screwdriver to get between the metal sleeve and the cover and pry them up enough to grab and twist them out. Be careful with either method, we are trying to save money, not buy a new plastic cover. Step five: Put a 3/8 inch or 10mm plastic washer between the sleeve and the cover. Do this eight times, one washer under each sleeve around the cover. Step six: Replace the o-ring, cover and bolts according to your manual. Do not over tighten, or you may be back in the leaking zone. Viola!! I found my plastic 3/8" washers at my local hardware superstore for about $2 plus Uncle Sam's part. They are working great. The washers take up the space that had been "squashed" down in the cover itself. Before my bolts were tight against the sleeve, which was tight against the engine case. But the cover was not tight against the engine case. Tighten the cover, tighten the o-ring sealing force. Made sense to me. I hope this helps some other lost soul out there who may be as stubborn as I am about taking my bike to a shop every time it coughs.